Today we’re going to start the stitching part.
Naturally, we’re beginning with piece #1, that long stem, and I’ll go over it in detail below.
But first, in case it helps you any, you can read this tutorial on my other blog, to get an extra dose of basic “how-to” for how it’s done: “How To Applique a Leaf“.
If you’ve never done applique before, and you’d like to use the leaf tutorial to do a practice piece with scraps of other fabrics, that might be a good idea, just for you to get the hang of making the stitches, turning the edges under, and the way it all feels.
Our stem we’re doing today is a bit different from the leaf in that it has inside curves, outside curves, and inside (or “V”) points. That leaf only had outside curves and outside points, so it was more basic. It’s time to learn those other things so you can get this stem in place right off the bat. Nothing like jumping right in, is there?
The first thing you need to do is find your piece #1, and prepare it even further to be appliqued. By that I mean we need to clip some things to make it easier to fold the edges under as we go.
Inner points, like the V-shape between the “arms” of the stem, and inside curves, need to be clipped so that the edge folds under without puckering or pulling. Outside curves do not need to be clipped.
So, take your scissors, and clip into the V right up to the drawn line.
Then clip each inside curve along the curve. Don’t clip all the way to the drawn line on curves, only go about halfway.
Now you can peel the paper off your piece, and you’ll need your piece of background fabric. Locate where the piece is to be positioned on your background fabric, and line it up in place.
Now here’s where I’m going to discuss pins. I use sequin pins for applique because they’re short, and that keeps my thread from getting hung up on them as I sew. Plus, because they’re little, I can use a lot of them to hold my piece in position. Here’s how it compares:
The long pin is called a Swiss Iris pin, and those are the pins I use for machine piecing. They’re 1 1/4″ long, and thinner than regular pins, such as the one in the middle. The middle regular pin is 1″ long, and the sequin pin is only 1/2″ long.
If the 1/2″ sequin pins are too tiny for you to handle (they are sorta hard to get hold of sometimes), then they also make a version with heads on them for easier pick-up, and there’s also a 3/4″ version. And, you don’t have to use this kind at all. Use whatever works for you.
Whichever pin you decide on, go ahead and use them to pin your stem in place on the background fabric.
Next, thread your needle with thread that matches the color of the applique piece, not the background fabric. I’m using tan for mine. I discussed needles and thread HERE, if you need to go back and learn more about that before you start.
I cut my piece of thread about 24″ long and tied a knot in one end.
Now to decide where to start . . .
Generally, on a curved piece, you should do the inside curves first, and the outside curves last. This makes the piece lie flatter in the finished block. However, our piece undulates, so it really doesn’t matter which side you do first.
In addition, I’m right-handed, so that’s how I’m demonstrating; if you’re left-handed, you’ll need to reverse everything from here on, because this will seem backwards to you.
Since the end of the short stem will get overlapped by a berry, it can be left unturned, making this a good place to start.
Fold under the edge of the applique piece with your needle — to the drawn line. This line is the line you will sew on, so always use it as a guide to turn the piece under. Hold it in place with your thumb, and bring the needle up from the back side, barely catching the folded edge of the applique piece.
To begin stitching, go down only in the background piece directly under the point where you came up, travel over about 1/16″ on the back side and push the needle back up through the background fabric and barely catch the folded edge of the applique piece.
Continue in this fashion, making blind stitches to attach the piece to the background. If the pins get in your way, remove them as you go. When you come to the first corner, bring the needle up directly at the point.
See that little piece sticking way out at the end? You should trim that off.
Trimming it off makes less bulk for you to turn under as you continue, making for a smoother finished piece. Make sure when you’re snipping it off that you don’t cut your thread or your background fabric.
Push under the seam allowance on the next side with your needle and continue on.
Turn the next corner, keep turning under the seam allowance, and continue down the next side.
Here’s what the back side should be looking like:
Don’t worry if it seems like slow going at first. You’ll get faster with continued practice.
Continue on until you get to the end of the next stem that will be overlapped by a berry. This edge doesn’t need to be turned under, as the berry will overlap it, so you can stop here. Push the needle down through the background fabric to the back side.
Turn the piece over, and take a few tacking stitches in the background fabric behind the appliqued piece to secure the thread.
Now you’re ready to start again. Turn the other side of the stem under and proceed.
As you get near the “V”, you can take your stitches a bit closer together, but be sure to come up right in the point of the “V”.
Turn your piece, fold the opposite edge under, and continue stitching. As you come out of the “V” on the other side, you can take stitches closer together, and resume normal stitch length once you’re away from the “V”.
Continue around the piece, stopping at the appropriate places, until you’re back to where you started. And you’ve done your first piece!
Now you get to repeat it some more.
Attach piece #2 in the same manner . . .
. . . and then you can move on to piece #4. Be sure to clip the inside curve of the leaf, and note that it overlaps pieces #1 and 3 in spots. Begin stitching on one side of the leaf — do not begin stitching right at the point.
Then you’re ready to attach piece #5. Here are mine all finished.
And that’s all we’re doing for today.
Next week, I’ll feature a tutorial on how to do perfectly round berries, and show you what to do with all the overlapping pieces of the flowers. I’ll also present more information on the fusible method. For now, I’m going to keep trying to get caught up on all the past diary entries. See you later . . .
What are your thoughts on using YLI monofilament thread for all the hand applique? I bought it, thinking to try machine applique with it, but I’m intriqued with this tutorial and wondering about using it. I only have Gutermann and a few Aurifil threads I use for piecing…would I still be better to stick with colored thread if I hand appliqued?
I finished my first block and I love it!! I am doing fusible applique and sewing it with a blanket stitch on my sewing machine! The only thing I haven’t done are the 3 circles – I am waiting to see what you do with those!