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We’re up to Row D already! Are you staying caught up? Last time was a bit more sewing than the first two rows, and again this time, we’ll be making 8 more rows for our quilts. And I’m starting to sound repetitious, but that’s because this quilt is so easy! And you’re getting the hang of it by now, right?

All seams are 1/4″. Press seams toward the darkest fabric. If you find the diagrams difficult to read, you can click on them to make them larger.

Remember to double check that you’ve done each row correctly by folding your finished row in half, end to end — the two halves will mirror each other, since every row is symmetrical. If not, then something is wrong, and it’s best to fix it before you go any further.

I’m giving you the number of pieces you need to make one row, then in parentheses, I’m giving you the total amount of pieces you will need to make all of the rows you need of each type. Also, since all the pieces are 2 1/2″ wide, I’m only referring to them by length.

Follow the instructions for the version you’re making: traditional or modern.

For the Traditional version, Row D (make 8):

Here are the pieces you will need:

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
4 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
2 1/2″ squares: 1 (8)

Red:
4 1/2″ rectangles: 6 (48)

Black:
No black pieces are needed this time.

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 8 of Row D. Use your labels to label these rows.

For the Modern version, Row D (make 8):

Here are the pieces you will need (remember to mix them all up for a scrappy look):

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
4 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
2 1/2″ squares: 1 (8)

Prints:
4 1/2″ rectangles: 6 (48)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 8 of Row D. Use your labels to label these rows.

And that’s it for Row D! We’re at the halfway point! The instructions for the next row are scheduled for April 25th — Happy Stitching!

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While I was only 6 years old when my mother passed away, I can still remember things she and I did together (thankfully).

One of those things was baking. In her kitchen, Hazel had a table and chairs similar to this (which is why, to this day, I still have a mostly red kitchen):

I had a little red polka dot apron, and she would put it on me, and stand me on a chair at the table (I was probably only 3 or 4 years old at the time), and I would get to help her mix up the brownie batter. Then I got to lick the bowl when we were finished!

And when Daddy came home from work, I was always so proud and excited to show him what I had made, as if I had done it all by myself!

While the brownies were cooling, she would set me down and put me to work on embroidering a tea towel. My first memories of sewing — doing cross-stitch (very poorly and crudely) of a cute little puppy stamped on a flour sack towel. I guess she realized if she kept me busy, I was less trouble! Haha!

My big brother, Gary, was in school, and my baby brother, Darin, must have been napping!

This is the brownie recipe we used, adapted a little from her trusty Better Homes & Gardens cookbook, and Mama always frosted them with Mocha Frosting, which made me like them much better. These brownies are more cake-like than dense, which I also prefer, since I’m not really a chocoholic.

Hazel’s Favorite Brownies

1/2 cup Crisco
2 1-ounce squares unsweetened chocolate
3/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup walnut pieces

Melt Crisco and chocolate together over hot water. (Do not do this step in a microwave — it does not work the same!)

Beat eggs until light; then stir in sugar. Add the chocolate mixture, and blend.

Mix flour, baking powder, and salt together; add this to the chocolate mixture, and mix well.

Stir in vanilla and walnuts.

Pour batter into a greased 8″ x 8″ pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes. Cool, then frost with Mocha Frosting.

Mocha Frosting

3 tablespoons cocoa
3 tablespoons hot coffee
3 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 – 1 3/4 cups powdered sugar

Combine cocoa and coffee; add butter and vanilla; beat until smooth. Add powdered sugar gradually, until frosting is of spreading consistency.

(This frosting is also great on cake! Yummy!!)

Are you ready for Row C? We have a bit more work to do this time!

So here we go . . .

All seams are 1/4″. Press seams toward the darkest fabric. If you find the diagrams difficult to read, you can click on them to make them larger.

As with all the rows, you can double check that you’ve done each row correctly by folding your finished row in half, end to end — the two halves will mirror each other, since every row is symmetrical. If not, then something is wrong, and it’s best to fix it before you go any further.

I’m giving you the number of pieces you need to make one row, then in parentheses, I’m giving you the total amount of pieces you will need to make all of the rows you need of each type. Also, since all the pieces are 2 1/2″ wide, I’m only referring to them by length.

Follow the instructions for the version you’re making: traditional or modern.

For the Traditional version, Row C (make 8):

Here are the pieces you will need:

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (32)

Red:
6 1/2″ rectangles: 1 (8)
4 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (32)

Black:
No black pieces are needed this time.

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 8 of Row C. Use your labels to label these rows.

For the Modern version, Row C (make 8):

Here are the pieces you will need (remember to mix them all up for a scrappy look):

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (16)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (32)

Prints:
6 1/2″ rectangles: 1 (8)
4 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (32)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 8 of Row C. Use your labels to label these rows.

That’s it for Row C. The instructions for the next row will be published on April 18th — Happy Stitching!

It’s time for Ornament #3!

If you’re just getting started, I recommend that you go back and read all the posts from the beginning, so you can have access to all the extra links and info. The links are in the sidebar at right, so you can navigate easily.

Here’s my three ornaments altogether for my throw quilt version:

Here’s the stitchery version:

In the pattern, I show you what stitches and colors I used where, but it’s only a guideline. For this ornament, the stitchery version is a bit smaller than the appliqué ones. However, if you wish to use the larger one for your stitchery, all you have to do is swap the templates. The difference is not that great.

Here’s my appliqué version for the throw quilt option:

Since I’ve been using rickrack on all my ornaments so far, I opted to add some stripes to my plain ornament, just so I could use some rickrack on this one, too. Totally optional!

Here’s my appliqué version for the wall quilt option:

You will notice that there is just a touch of embroidery embellishment on the two appliqué versions — if you don’t want to do embroidery for those lines, you can choose a piece of fabric with a motif that can be fussy cut, you can ink them on with a fabric marker, you can attach an embellishment of your choice, or you can leave it off altogether.

As usual, you have lots of options with these, so you can make them all your own!

The pattern is available as a PDF instant download in Hazel’s Mercantile for the bargain price of $1.75. It has all the instructions for all the versions of the ornament shown above, along with full-size templates, and all the information I could think of to include. It’s ready for download, so you can get started right away!

Again, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact me and ask. I’ll be happy to answer!

Happy Stitching!

Row A was super easy, right? Row B will be easy, too. They get a bit more involved as we go, but it’s really simple sewing, so it goes quickly.

All seams are 1/4″. Press seams toward the darkest fabric. If you find the diagrams difficult to read, you can click on them to make them larger.

As with Row A, you can double check that you’ve done each row correctly by folding your finished row in half, end to end — the two halves will mirror each other, since every row is symmetrical. If not, then something is wrong, and it’s best to fix it now.

I’m giving you the number of pieces you need to make one row, then in parentheses, I’m giving you the total amount of pieces you will need to make all of the rows you need of each type. Also, since all the pieces are 2 1/2″ wide, I’m only referring to them by length.

Follow the instructions for the version you’re making: traditional or modern.

For the Traditional version, Row B (make 2):

Here are the pieces you will need:

Background:
8 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (8)
2 1/2″ squares: 2 (4)

Red:
4 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (8)
2 1/2″ squares: 1 (2)

Black:
2 1/2″ squares: 2 (4)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 2 of Row B. Use your labels to label these rows. I folded my rows together, then pinned the label on the end.

For the Modern version, Row B (make 2):

Here are the pieces you will need (remember to mix them all up for a scrappy look):

Background:
8 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (8)
2 1/2″ squares: 2 (4)

Prints:
4 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (8)
2 1/2″ squares: 3 (6)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) This row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 2 of Row B. Use your labels to label these rows. I folded my rows together, then pinned the label on the end.

And that’s it for now — again, pretty easy. The instructions for the next row will be published on April 11th, so be sure and check back.

OK, by now you should have all your fabric pieces cut, and be ready to start sewing! Not quite ready? Just finding us? No worries . . . just click HERE to go back to the beginning — it won’t take you long to get caught up.

This quilt is constructed in rows, with each row made up of different size rectangles and squares. The color vs. background placement is very important, so follow the piecing charts carefully. (If you find the diagrams difficult to read, you can click on them to make them larger.)

One way to double check that you’ve done each row correctly is to fold your finished row in half, end to end — the two halves will mirror each other, since every row is symmetrical. If not, then something is wrong, and it’s best to find this out sooner rather than later, right?

All seams are 1/4″. If you need to make sure your seam allowance is correct, visit THIS post for a method of testing it.

For Row A, I recommend backstitching at the beginning and end of each seam. This will not be necessary on the rest of the rows. Press seams toward the darkest fabric.

I’m giving you the number of pieces you need to make one row, then in parentheses, I’m giving you the total amount of pieces you will need to make all of the rows you need of each type. Also, since all the pieces are 2 1/2″ wide, I’m only referring to them by length.

Follow the instructions for the version you’re making: traditional or modern.

For the Traditional version, Row A (make 2):

Here are the pieces you will need:

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 3 (6)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)

Red:
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)

Black:
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) The finished row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 2 of Row A. Use your labels to label these rows. I folded my rows together, then pinned the label on the end:

For the Modern version, Row A (make 2):

Here are the pieces you will need (remember to mix them all up for a scrappy look):

Background:
10 1/2″ rectangles: 3 (6)
6 1/2″ rectangles: 2 (4)

Prints:
6 1/2″ rectangles: 4 (8)

Follow this diagram, and join the pieces together, sewing them end to end. (In the diagram, the numbers indicate the finished size of each patch.) The finished row should measure 2 1/2″ x 66 1/2″.

Make 2 of Row A. Use your labels to label these rows. I folded my rows together, then pinned the label on the end (see photo above).

And that’s it for the first row — easy, huh? The instructions for the next row will be published on April 4th, so be sure and check back. I’m giving you plenty of time to get caught up, if you’re just getting started!

Did you manage to get your background pieces cut out over the weekend? If not, it’s OK, you’re not real behind just yet. Today we’re going to cut the print pieces, and Thursday, we start sewing!

Follow the instructions for the version of the quilt you’ve chosen to make: the traditional or the modern.

For the Traditional version:

For the traditional version, I used yardage, so all the pieces are cut from two different prints, a red, and a black.

We will first cut strips from the width of the fabric (WOF), so all your strips will have selvages on both ends, and be 40-42″ in length. We will be cutting the strips 2 1/2″ wide. Cut the pieces in the order stated, cutting the largest rectangles first, down to the smallest squares.

From the red fabric, cut 27 strips 2 1/2″ x WOF. Then cut the selvages off the ends.

Subcut these strips into the following rectangles and squares, and use the labels to keep track of which sizes are which:

26 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
168 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
16 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″

From the black fabric, cut 7 strips 2 1/2″ x WOF. Then cut the selvages off the ends.

Subcut these strips into the following rectangles and squares, and use the labels to keep track of which sizes are which:

18 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
6 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
44 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″

Again, I put my pieces in a little bin that I kept on my cutting table while I was working on the quilt, but use whatever your favorite method is to keep from getting confused (especially if you have to walk away from it for any length of time).

Here are all my pieces after I cut them:

For the Modern version:

I used 12 different fat quarters for my modern version, and I made sure to cut some of each size piece from each print, so that I would have a good variety sprinkled all over my quilt top. You can certainly use more than 12 for more variety, or you can use up all sorts of scraps — I always say, the scrappier, the better!

I cut each fat quarter into 2 1/2″ strips the long length of the fat quarter, so that I had strips measuring 2 1/2″ x ~22″ to begin with. Then I removed the selvage end, and cut my rectangles and squares from those strips.

To mix all the prints up, cut a few of each size from each fabric. Here’s what you need to cut:

44 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
174 rectangles 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
60 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″

A couple of my prints were stripes, so I cut one print with the stripes going one direction, and the other one with the stripes going the other direction, just for variety. You can do this, too, if you have a directional fabric — just another option, but not necessary.

Use your labels to keep the sizes separated, and store them however it’s easiest for you to use them.

And that’s it for today! Check back on Thursday — we’re gonna start sewing!