I’m including a list of the basic tools and other supplies you’ll need to make this quilt. I encourage you to use whatever your favorite tools are, but I’m listing what I use below. I did this for the first quilt-along, but since we’ll be doing some applique this time, there’s a few more things to add and talk about.
For the piecing part:
Sewing machine in good working order, with a new needle (to start out with) and plenty of bobbins on hand. The piecing is not difficult, so a simple straight-stitch machine will be just fine. I recommend a new needle because it makes such a difference, and I want your project to hum along without any stress. It’s also handy to have a few bobbins wound ahead of time, so you don’t have to stop sewing to wind more.
A rotary cutting mat and ruler(s). I always recommend to my students that they buy the largest cutting mat they can afford. While I assume that most quilters already have one, if you are a beginner, or are in the market for a new one, get a big one! I will also assume that most quilters have a ruler or two laying around somewhere, but just in case you don’t, the best size for this project is going to be a 6″ x 12″ ruler. Toward the end, a large square ruler, like a 16″ x 16″, might come in handy, and for straightening up fabric or cutting borders, a 6″ x 24″ ruler could be useful. However, if you don’t have any ruler at all, and want to buy only one, get the 6″ x 12″ one first.
A good rotary cutter. I use a Martelli ergonomic cutter, the 45mm size. I can cut for hours without even noticing. I’ve tried every kind, but I now think I can’t live without my Martelli. They say they’re in the process of redesigning it, so it should be even better in the future. My second favorite choice would be the Fiskars 45mm rotary cutter. And I wouldn’t be totally against using an Olfa cutter, either. I just can’t use one for an extended period of time without it hurting my wrist and hand. For this project, don’t get the little tiny rotary cutter. It’s too much work. The 45mm, whatever your favorite brand, will be the best. And since you’re only doing a little each day, you shouldn’t tire yourself out with cutting no matter which brand you’re using.
Thread. You’ll need a spool of thread in a neutral color that goes with your fabrics. I used white for mine, because my background was white, and I didn’t want a color to shadow through. This thread is for the piecing part. I’ll discuss applique thread farther down the page.
Storage bin. I really recommend a bin of some type to use for storing all the pieces and parts of this project all in one place. Since we’ll be working on it over the course of several months, you don’t want to have parts of it scattered everywhere, and you’ll want to be able to pull it out and yet put it away easily when necessary. If it’s all in one bin or drawer, that will greatly simplify things and hopefully prevent you from losing anything as you go.
In addition, for the applique part, you’ll need:
Freezer paper: For making slip-free applique templates. This is optional, however, and I’ll discuss several different ways of making templates as we get started. You can then pick your favorite.
Thread: For applique, it’s best to match the thread to the piece you’re sewing down, NOT your background fabric, so you’ll need thread that matches each of your applique fabrics. I generally use Mettler Metrosene Poly Plus, but I also have a few spools of silk and cotton that I use when the color suits me. The silk is expensive, but hides the stitches well. I’ve found that the poly is the next best thing for me, and is much more reasonably priced. It’s all a matter of personal preference and finding what you can afford and what works for you.
Scissors: You’ll need paper scissors and good fabric scissors, and I’ve found that in most quilting households, these are not one and the same. My daughters always knew not to use the “good scissors” to cut anything but fabric!
Marking pencil: You’ll need a fabric marking pencil that washes out or disappears with ironing. For dark fabrics, I use the Clover White Ball-Point Marking Pen. It rolls on liquid, and the line shows up after it dries. To remove the lines, you press. It makes an easy-to-draw fine line that shows up well on dark fabrics. For light fabrics, I use a Roxanne’s silver marking pencil, and mark as lightly as I can. There is also a new Sew-Line Mechanical Pencil out now that marks really easy fine lines and comes in several lead colors. There are so many choices of marking pencils out there to choose from, you should just experiment with as many as you can to find what you like and what works best for you.
Needles: If you’ve never tried applique before, I would not suggest starting out with the tiniest of applique sharps. Try something easy for you to hang on to, and easy to thread; then as you gain experience, you can graduate to the tinier ones (much like you would with hand quilting needles). I use applique sharps, size 12, but they’re very tiny and not easy to thread. Jeana Kimball makes a line of applique needles (straw needles) that are wonderful. If you’re just starting out, however, regular sharps in a size 10 would be a good place to start.
Thimble: Your favorite thimble might come in handy for the hand-stitching part. I use these: Greatest. Invention. Ever. But feel free to use what works best for you. Everyone has their own preference.
And of course you’ll need your fabrics that you chose, and a healthy dose of enthusiasm. Are you ready?
